Flying into the Fire Zone

So, New York, the world's most modern and affluent city, has become a global hotspot, and the flames of enmity are spreading from here, heating up the planet. It was in this intense global atmosphere that, as part of a collaboration between the Ministry of Culture and Information and the Ford Foundation for Cultural Research in the United States, we embarked on a flight to New York's fire zone. Many people asked us if we were concerned about encountering terrorism at this time. Moreover, there was the fear of anthrax and those terrifying white powder packages! We weren't particularly worried, but we did have some reservations. Are the Americans too preoccupied with recovering from the September 11th disaster and submerged in the intensity of war to receive us calmly? Nevertheless, "the wind blows, the process moves forward," and we set off. The decline in international air travel activities after the September 11th disaster in the United States was evident, from Noi Bai Airport, through Taipei Airport, to New York Airport, with a significant reduction in the number of passengers. Vietnam Airlines Flight CI.012, in cooperation with Taiwan Airlines, had so few passengers that people could comfortably stretch out on the empty seats. Taipei Airport was deserted. Along the way, only a group of Vietnamese passengers, consisting of 10 people and 2 Chinese, attracted attention. We sat scattered across plastic chairs, waiting to check in before continuing our journey to the United States. The transoceanic flight, spanning 12 time zones from Vietnam to the United States, was quite exhausting. It's unclear why these Taiwanese security personnel worked so meticulously, scrutinizing our passports, to the point that we were leaving yawning! With each airport, as we got closer to the United States, we noticed that security measures were tightening. At Noi Bai Airport, there was a slight change in the presence of a police lieutenant in uniform, carrying a gun and a walkie-talkie, at the checkpoint between the passenger conduit and the aircraft door. Taipei Airport didn't seem to have any special signs. But when we returned from the hotel to the terminal to head to New York, we realized that the security personnel here were working extremely meticulously. Our group passed through the security gate. Everyone passed normally, except for Mr. Toan, who was asked to stop and open his bag for a security check. It turned out that there was a knife in his bag used for cutting fruit. Immediately, the security staff invited him to make a written report, confiscated the knife, and issued a receipt. They informed him that he will get the knife back when he arrived in New York. At 6 p.m., the passengers of the New York flight were crowded, and the airport announced that everyone had to leave the waiting area and go upstairs to redo the security procedures. People lined up in a zigzag pattern for manual inspections. Perhaps at this moment, modern technology is not trusted as much as humans. Security staff conducted rather thorough checks, inspecting each bag, and even rummaging through Ms. Dao's coat pocket because they saw something sharp - it turned out to be a ballpoint pen. Mr. Nga had a plastic-handled razor confiscated as well. We arrived at Kennedy International Airport (New York) at around 7:30 p.m., local time. Except for us Vietnamese and some Chinese passengers, there were hardly any passengers from other continents on this flight. Looking down from above, New York appears with its twinkling lights covering a vast area. Kennedy International Airport terminal was large but low, similar to many airport terminals around the world. Amid the vastness of the terminal and the bright lights, the group of passengers entering the United States appeared small and unfamiliar. People lined up along the winding path of rope barriers. Customs officials worked meticulously and cheerfully. A Vietnamese-American customs officer, with rosy skin and almost bald head, asked us about the situation in Vietnam while processing our entry. He said that a couple of years ago, he had visited his homeland and was delighted to find life there pleasant. He wished us an enjoyable visit.

Life in the United States

According to the plan, we were supposed to be welcomed at the airport terminal by representatives from the Ford Foundation. Four people came to greet us, representing three different nationalities: Professor Martin Sullivan, an American; Tim Dowling and Dan J. Martin, both British; and a young American woman of Spanish descent named Marisa Lopez. This was perhaps the first real-life indication in the United States that it is indeed a multicultural nation.

Having worked in Vietnam for several years and being married to a Vietnamese woman, Tim spoke fluent Vietnamese. In the chilly evening air, beneath the dim light of the tall lampposts, we waited for our transportation. The atmosphere was bustling and vibrant. Occasionally, a police car would rush by with sirens blaring. However, the bus we were expecting didn't arrive, so Marisa made a phone call and discussed the situation with Tim. Tim informed us that due to heightened security measures, buses were no longer allowed to pick up passengers at the terminal, so we had to walk to the outer curb. We pulled our suitcases up a slight incline onto the main road. Fortunately, in this modern age, suitcases and bags come equipped with wheels, making it easy to move them. Nevertheless, on rough or uneven stretches of road, we had to carry them, which made us break a sweat. We wandered for more than an hour before finally encountering the organizers' vehicle. Tim expressed his apologies for this inconvenience.

The vehicle drove smoothly through the restless night air. At one point, it suddenly came to a stop. Sitting in the back, unsure of what was happening, I asked and learned that the police were conducting a check. A police officer boarded and looked around; the car wasn't very well lit. He spotted a young woman in uniform, fairly young and beautiful. The police officer asked Tim Dowling a question, briefly glanced at us, smiled warmly, and then stepped off the vehicle. Marisa explained that since the September 11th tragedy, these roadside checks had become commonplace.

Tim informed us that the next day, we would be going on a tour of New York, including a visit to the World Trade Center. Marisa provided us with the schedule, emphasizing the need to carry identification papers at all times because the entire city was enforcing strict security checks. Even inside the hotel, only registered guests were allowed access, so we needed to show our room keys to the security staff when using the elevator.

You arranged for us to stay at the Minford Plaza Hotel on 8th Avenue, right in the bustling heart of Manhattan in New York. As we got out of the car, our eyes were drawn to the memorial dedicated to the victims of the September 11th tragedy. It was a fairly large bronze statue depicting a firefighter in a kneeling and sorrowful pose. This place was adorned with flowers, vases of flowers, photographs, and candles, all expressing the compassion of the people for the victims.

We also visited the Empire State Building, the tallest building in the U.S., which was currently under the threat of destruction according to U.S. authorities. Our driver, Dick, explained that due to the security situation, navigating the city had become extremely challenging for vehicles. He exclaimed and mentioned that they had to take tours and navigate through many streets to reach us. When we approached the Empire State Building, the car had to stop because, for security reasons, vehicles were not allowed near the building. Thuy, an official from the International Cooperation Department, was surprised to see that the number of visitors to the building was much lower than before. She explained that in the past, there used to be long lines of people waiting to ascend to the 86th floor for a view of New York, with waits of at least three hours. But now, there were fewer visitors, and you could reach the top in just ten minutes. Everyone had to go through a thorough security check, similar to airport security. On the 80th floor, while changing elevators, we noticed a group of police officers with sniffer dogs patrolling around the tour group. Due to the fog, we couldn't see the World Trade Center area clearly from the high tower; we could only discern traces of smoke. I observed that in New York, practicality and functionality seemed to be highly valued. This was evident everywhere and at all times. Buildings were tall, towering to maximize floor space, turning the city into narrow canyons with little sunlight and very few green spaces or gardens. People were mainly concerned with the shape and function of the buildings, giving little attention to architectural details or facade decoration. This contrasts with European or Asian architectural styles. In Denmark, I had seen that when reconstructing houses on main streets, homeowners had to maintain the facades of the old buildings; they were only allowed to make structural changes inside the buildings. In France, every facade of an old building was a sculptural masterpiece. Here, most buildings were square-shaped, often featuring dark tinted glass or being almost entirely covered in advertisements. In fact, many buildings had external fire escape stairs for emergency evacuations, which were aesthetically unpleasing. Furthermore, these stairs often only extended up to the first floor, appearing awkward. It seems that people here prioritized functionality over aesthetics.

I had previously observed in Denmark that when reconstructing houses on main streets, homeowners were required to maintain the facade of the old building, with only changes allowed inside. In France, each facade of an old building was a masterpiece of sculpture. In the United States, however, most buildings were square-shaped and often featured dark-tinted glass or were covered in advertisements. Many buildings also had external fire escape stairs, which, while functional, did little to enhance the aesthetics of the structures. Moreover, these staircases often only extended to the first floor, giving them a somewhat unfinished appearance.

Despite these differences, we found that Americans were very practical and efficient in their approach to life. This pragmatism was reflected not only in the design of buildings but also in everyday activities. People were focused on their goals and objectives, which could be seen in their work ethic and determination. They were result-oriented and had a strong sense of purpose.

As we continued our exploration of New York and Washington, D.C., we also encountered the resilience of the American people in the face of adversity. Despite the lingering effects of the September 11th attacks and the increased security measures, life went on. People continued to enjoy cultural activities, visit museums and libraries, and appreciate the arts. The presence of security checks at various locations had become a routine part of daily life, but it didn't deter people from going about their activities.

Overall, our visit to the United States provided us with valuable insights into American culture, resilience, and pragmatism. It was a unique opportunity to observe and learn from a society that had faced significant challenges but continued to move forward with determination and purpose.

During our visit, we were guided to explore various neighborhoods and institutions. In the following days, we visited the University of New York, the Theater and Dance Association, the Lincoln Cultural Center, the Experimental Theater Club, the Foundation Center, the New York Arts Fund, the New York Public Library, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. We also had the chance to tour the nation's capital, Washington, D.C.

From an external perspective, life in these cities seemed relatively tension-free. The people of New York and Washington, D.C., continued to conduct their daily activities such as work, leisurely strolls, queuing for art exhibitions, visiting libraries, and touring museums without any noticeable disruption. Even the image of Osama bin Laden was printed on T-shirts and sold openly on the streets, alongside images of the United States' number one enemy, which were displayed prominently.

In many places, there was a market for items related to the World Trade Center, such as paintings, photographs, and models, serving both as a painful reminder of the tragedy and an opportunity for individuals to earn a living. Prior to entering government buildings or other important facilities, we were subjected to bag checks. It was a routine practice for all Americans as well, ensuring heightened security in public spaces.

Professor Martin Solomon, the head of the Business Administration department in the Arts Management program at Binghamton University, served as our enthusiastic tour guide. Despite being 65 years old and walking with a slight limp, he was very passionate about his role as a tour guide. He informed us that we were on 42nd Street, which had been known for crime, including drugs and prostitution, about four to five years ago. However, the situation had changed since the appointment of a new mayor. As a result, the area had become glamorous and was now home to numerous museums and theaters.

There was a theater named after an American airline company, which had sponsored its construction. The Ford Foundation had also provided funding to build a Ford Center, a high-quality theater. We noticed a line of people across the street waiting to purchase tickets for art performances. Professor Martin explained that tickets purchased here were discounted by half, making it affordable for less fortunate individuals to attend. There was a theater that continuously performed the play "Les Misérables," and even after many years, it continued to attract large audiences.

While passing by a fire department headquarters, we noticed many flowers, photographs, written notes, and burning candles placed at a corner of the wall. This was a memorial to the firefighters who lost their lives during the September 11th attacks. A young firefighter explained to us that his unit had lost a significant number of members, accounting for about one-tenth of the firefighters who perished while performing their duties at the World Trade Center.

We also visited the Empire State Building, the tallest skyscraper in the United States, which was currently under threat of destruction, according to U.S. authorities. Our driver, Dick, navigated the vehicle through the most convenient route to reach the building. He mentioned that due to the heightened security situation, it had become extremely difficult to travel around the city. He lamented that he had to take detours and navigate through many new streets to pick us up.

As we approached the Empire State Building, our vehicle came to a halt as part of the security measures in place. Certain types of vehicles were restricted from approaching the building. Thuy, an officer from the International Cooperation Department who was accompanying us, expressed astonishment at the reduced number of visitors compared to earlier times. She explained that in the past, this waiting area used to be overcrowded, with visitors waiting for up to three hours to access the observation deck on the 86th floor. However, the lines had now shortened, and it took only about ten minutes to pass through the security checks. Everyone had to undergo thorough inspections, similar to those at airports. On the 80th floor, as we transferred to the elevator, we noticed a group of police officers patrolling with their dogs around the tour group. Due to the fog, we couldn't get a clear view of the World Trade Center site; only the lingering smoke was visible.

It's worth noting that during my stay in New York, I observed that Americans were highly pragmatic and goal-oriented in their approach to life, which was evident in various aspects of their culture and daily activities. This practicality was evident everywhere, at all times. Buildings were very tall, reaching for the sky to maximize usable space, resulting in the city feeling like narrow valleys with limited sunlight and minimal room for trees and gardens. People focused primarily on the form and functionality of buildings, with less emphasis on architectural details and façade ornamentation. This contrasted starkly with European or Asian architecture. In Denmark, for example, homeowners were required to maintain the facades of old houses when rebuilding, only permitted to make structural changes inside. In France, the facades of ancient buildings were often exquisite sculptures. In contrast, many American houses were utilitarian, sometimes covered with black glass or plastered with various advertisements. Even iron stairs were often installed on the exterior walls for emergency escapes, which didn't contribute to aesthetics.

In addition, Americans meticulously calculated their designs, often employing retractable staircases that extended only to the first floor, giving them a utilitarian appearance. The remaining section could be lowered when needed, requiring someone to jump and secure it in place.

After our visit to the Empire State Building, we walked down the street and encountered two soldiers in American uniforms filming a group of people in front of the camera, chanting in unison, "New York! New York! We thank the security personnel!" It seemed that whether security measures were conducted covertly or openly, their impact was felt throughout New York's daily life. Day and night, sirens from police cars, fire trucks, or ambulances were frequently heard. One night, at 3 a.m., the entire downtown area of Manhattan was filled with the blaring sirens of police cars and the rumbling of vehicles. We opened the window to see what was causing the commotion but couldn't discern the reason. By morning, the atmosphere had returned to normal. It appeared that U.S. security forces had a penchant for making their presence known through loud sirens and ostentatious displays, which contributed to the constant noise in the city.

The streets of New York, once often congested, now faced frequent sudden road closures, causing delays for our group on several occasions. American friends explained that these impromptu road closures were measures aimed at impeding potential terrorists and restricting their movements. Many areas required individuals to park their cars outside and proceed on foot. Particularly sensitive areas like the Pentagon were completely off-limits. Due to these strict security measures, guests were no longer allowed to visit the Statue of Liberty on the island as they had in the past. Instead, the Organizing Committee arranged for us to take a ferry around the island to view the iconic statue from a distance. The brisk wind chilled us as we watched the endless waves, gray clouds rolling by, and seagulls soaring in the sky, all of which added to the Statue of Liberty's grandeur, evoking a sense of tranquility.

Perhaps Americans' vigilance and meticulousness were intentional efforts to draw global attention and "sympathy." However, these measures often hindered visitors' ability to fully explore the "inner workings" of the Statue of Liberty and its history museum. Due to extensive publicity about terrorism on U.S. soil, there had been a significant decline in the number of people visiting the United States. American friends informed us that after the September 11th tragedy, the tourism industry had suffered a 40% decrease in visitors. Professor Martin Su-luman noted that many international cooperation programs with the United States have been canceled, but the Vietnamese delegation still decided to proceed with their plan to visit the United States, a decision that has deeply touched many people.